Italy is tied as the most popular destination for Nellie clients, hands down. This summer we ran a 45-person group retreat to Capri and sent guests on golf cart tours through Rome, boating to our favorite beach clubs in the Amalfi coast, and hiking in the Dolomites. Climate change is driving Rome and Pompeii's summer temps over 100 degrees during heat waves and so, in search of cooler climes, I headed to Northern Italy in July for what may now be one of my favorite Italian itineraries.
First Stop: Venice
Let me start by saying that Venice is hot, in terms of both popularity (#1 visited city in Italy) and heat. Surrounded by water, the city practically drips with sweat. And you've heard about the overcrowding. But the unique magic of Venice's labyrinth streets, water-based transportation, and opportunities to indulge your inner artist make it well worth a summer visit.
The key to truly appreciating Venice, especially in the summer, is to rise early. I loved my quiet, sunrise walks through the misty alleys and over picturesque bridges hearing nothing but the water below us and the birds above. And during the day if I wanted a break from the crowds, all I had to do was walk 10 minutes from the city center. The crowds disappear, and it’s like you’ve stepped back in time.
The Peggy Guggenheim Museum, which houses an impressive collection of modern art, is a must-visit. It left us with jaws dropped. Even those who don't consider themselves "art people" will find themselves captivated by the sheer quality and variety of works on display. For art-lovers, there are too many museums and galleries to count and, of course, the Venice Biennial, one of the world's leading contemporary art exhibits that runs every other summer in Venice.
Here’s a tip: While gondola rides are a classic Venetian experience, consider arriving or departing the city by water taxi for an equally thrilling and more authentic adventure. Gliding across the lagoon with the wind in your hair = A++ experience.
EAT
For an authentic dinner away from the crowds, head to Antiche Campagne, a family-run restaurant specializing in Venetian seafood-centric cuisine since 1983. If you want to eat with the locals, book a reservation after 9pm.
STAY
The pool at the Belmond Cipriani, located across the lagoon from central Venice, is the place to escape the heat during the midday heat. For an intimate, boutique hotel located steps from Piazza San Marco, the family-owned Violino d’Oro recently opened (note that the property and rooms are on the smaller size).
Next Stop: Hiking The Dolomites
From the canals of Venice, I headed north to the breathtaking Dolomite Mountains. Hiking in the Dolomites is quite different from our more rugged “off the grid” adventures here in the US. The mountain trails here are extremely well marked, and all of the trails are dotted with charming huts known as "rifugi." These offer not just rest stops, but opportunities to pause whenever you want to sip on an Aperol spritz or savor a plate of homemade pasta or apple strudel, all while taking in the breathtaking scenery. For families, the mountains offer mid-mountain playgrounds to keep young kids motivated and entertained.
One surprising aspect of the Dolomites is its unique cultural blend. Parts of this region, known as South Tyrol, were once part of Austria, and this heritage is evident in the local dialect, cuisine, and architecture.
STAY
During peak season, it can be hard to escape the crowds in the Dolomites. I chose a serene hotel called Forestis. It’s reached via a 30 minute drive up winding mountain roads from the town of Brixen. The contemporary, sleek property blends Scandinavian simplicity with Italian elegance and a focus on wellness. The property looks south, with unobstructed views of the Dolomites . Dinner is served in a romantic, glamorous dining room as a tasting menu or a la carte. Given the wellness orientation, most guests were couples and groups of adults from Europe and Asia, all of whom dressed in elegant attire for dinner.
PLAY
It can take several hours to travel between different recreation areas in the Dolomites. From Forestis, we recommend driving 40 minutes to the Alfred Mungel Weg trail and stopping at the rifugio, Geisler Alm, for lunch. There are several ways to modify this hike based on your desired hiking length. If you don’t feel like driving, Plose Ski Resort is within walking distance of the hotel and you can mountain bike or hike the mountain, stopping for lunch at Rossalm. And of course, a day spent at the spa and pool is a perfect way to relax.
Next Stop: Lake Como
I finished my week in Italy on the shores of the iconic Lake Como. After my city-break and hiking adventure, I was ready to relax and dine on the shores of one of the most famous lakes in the world. Lake Como is a beautiful lake, enhanced by well-preserved homes lining the shores, adorable villages from popular Bellagio to Como itself. A perfect few days in Como include chartering a private boat to explore the lake's picturesque towns and villas, hiking the trails surrounding the lake, and lounging pool-side.
EAT
Il Gato Nero, perched above the town of Como, is popular with George Clooney and other celebrities. The views of the lake are spectacular, as is the food.
STAY
Villa D’este is the grandest of grand hotels—and has been since 1873. The gorgeous property sits right on the lake and is like a fairy tale come to life. It’s old-school, world-class luxury in every possible way: service, food, amenities, and location. Spend your days at the floating pool and walk into Como for dinner.
Villa Passlacqua ranks amongst my favorite hotels. The villa was purchased by the De Santis family several years ago and lovingly turned into a boutique hotel that feels more like a private villa than a hotel. With just 24 suites and expansive lush grounds, you feel removed from the densely populated lake. What really sealed the deal for me was the open kitchen where you can mingle with the chefs preparing your food each day. You might say it feels like a “home-away-from-home” but that would mean your home had a Michelin-starred restaurant downstairs and impeccable service 24/7. It’s been ranked the number one hotel on a lot of lists, and it’s well-deserved.
Also owned by the De Santis family, Hotel Gran Tremezzo is more family-focused, though still deeply elegant. It’s located further north along Lake Como, across the lake from Bellagio. The hotel is located at lake-level and offers an Insta-worth floating pool across the street. The hotel’s colorful design-forward decor is a hit with their chic clientele. Insider-tip: Guests like to bring orange pool attire to match the beautiful pool umbrellas.