After a long wet winter in San Francisco, we were thrilled to hop on a plane to scout out what is now officially one of our favorite destinations. With mild temperatures, charming cities and towns, delicious food and some of the best wine we’ve ever had, spring in Portugal was just what the doctor ordered.
We’re hoping our notes from the trip will inspire you to plan your own. Want some help with that? Nellie’s got you covered.
FIRST STOP: LISBON
Our flight from San Francisco arrived in Lisbon very late, and it was nearly 2am when we stepped into the lobby of our darling hotel, H10. Exhausted and hungry, we were greeted by the lovely gentleman working the front desk with warmth, empathy, and an offer to get our kids (ages 8 and 10) some much-needed food.
After a good night’s sleep, we stumbled down to breakfast where we were delighted by the robust and delicious spread (the service was fantastic, too). We gulped down some of the best orange juice we’ve ever tasted, ate until our bellies were full and then stepped out to explore the streets of Lisbon.
The city is very walkable, but much like San Francisco, Lisbon is a city built on hills, making the many taxis, tuk tuks, and famous cable cars a welcome sight.
After a day of exploring, we did a quick hotel change to check out the ever-so-stunning Santa Clara 1728. This hotel is an oasis of tranquility.
That evening, we caught a taxi to catch the sunset at Topo Martim Moniz, a rooftop bar and restaurant in the heart of the city. The kids were in absolute heaven with the free video games mostly from the 80s and 90s era. We loved the unobstructed views of Sao Jorge Castle, the perfectly prepared caprioskas, and the delicious food.
En route back to our hotel, we stopped to explore Barrio Alto, our favorite neighborhood in the city. We sipped green wine and got to try the famous pastel de nata bakery, Manteigaria, which is now officially on our “do not miss” list.
If you’re a night owl, the best way to end the day is with a nightcap at one of Lisbon’s many Fado bars.
Day Trip to Sintra
We headed out to meet our private driver for a day trip to Sintra, a resort town just outside of Lisbon in the forested foothills of the Sintra Mountain. It’s a longtime royal sanctuary and is gorgeously populated by pastel-colored villas and fairytale palaces. We explored the narrow streets with our local guide, where we could feel the history and magic of the village in every vista and around every corner.
We visited the Palacio da Vila, originally built as a hunting lodge and used as a royal summer residence up until the 20th century. It has the greatest collection of Mudéjar tiles in the country and is topped by two large twin chimneys, which have become the symbol of Sintra.
We had a nice lunch in old town before jumping back in the car and heading to the white-washed beach town of Cascais. After a wander and a stop for ice cream, we were dropped off at Cascais Marina where we were warmly welcomed on board by the captain and crew for our sail back to Lisbon. We sipped local wine while the kids were happily put to work by the crew to help sail us back to the city. The smiles on their faces as they raised the sails will be etched in our memories forever.
STAY: Hotel H10
Stunning rooftop terrace bar with views of the city. Delicious food and great energy. Rooms were lovely – king bed with a sofa pull-out for 2 children. Deluxe Room Category. Wonderful breakfast.
STAY: Silent Living: Santa Clara 1728
A family-owned boutique hotel. Sleek, modern, quiet and unique. Offers a handful of rooms that are very large. Our bathroom was to die for and the outdoor garden was calming. The breakfast is made from local, seasonal organic products and was one of the best hotel breakfasts we’ve ever had.
Worth exploring in Lisbon:
- Belem Tower
- St George's Castle
- Viewpoint of Senhora do Monte
- Barrio Alto
NEXT STOP: PORTO
We decided to rent a car to see the sights on our way to Porto from Lisbon, about a 31/2 hour drive. We stopped halfway in the lovely college town of Coimbra and enjoyed lunch and ice cream before continuing on.
We arrived at the Yeatman Hotel and dropped our bags in our lovely and spacious suite. We took in the expansive views of the Douro River, before heading down with the kids to the stunning infinity pool for some sun and snacks.
We spent the afternoon walking around the town, popping into a winery along the way and then indulging the kids with more snacks at a super-cool food hall, Beira-Rio Mercado.
We also visited Livraria Lello, the majestic Neo-Gothic bookstore known as the inspiration for much of the Hogwarts scenery in Harry Potter. And stepping in, we were instantly transported to a magical world that inspired J.K. Rowling.
We ended our day at Douro Marina pier and a two-hour sunset boat trip along the Porto River. Finally, we stumbled upon a charming family-owned restaurant, Restaurante do Terreirinho, for a delicious and authentic Portuguese dinner.
STAY: The Yeatman
The infinity pool is the most incredible part of this hotel. It spans across the cityscape of Porto looking out onto the Douro River and the sounds of the city float up to meet you in the most romantic way. The bar is library-like and has great food and wines. The indoor pool was a hit for the kids on chilly days (the outdoor pool was not heated). The grounds are beautiful and the suites are very large with views of the city and Douro River.
LAST STOP: DOURO VALLEY
We kept the car to drive to our final destination: the Douro Valley. After the four-hour journey, we decided to have a “hotel hangout day.” The Vintage House, a quaint riverfront hotel, turned out to be the perfect place for that. We enjoyed a lunch of house-made pasta and delicious breads, an afternoon of R&R at the pool, and a fabulous dinner back in the hotel restaurant.
The next morning, we met our host for a day of wine tasting and boating. The first stop was, Quinta Do Bomfim, one of the most renowned wine estates in the region. Now, we know what you’re thinking—how can you really enjoy a winery when you’ve got kids? That’s where a good host and guide, like the one we had, can save the day. Our guide took the kids to play on the grounds and on the boat so the adults could sip and relax without a second thought.
Next, we hopped on the local train from Pinhão where we admired the traditional tile work from the 1930s, arriving just a few minutes later at Ferrão. We were welcomed by a driver who loaded us in the back of his old Ford pickup truck with padded benches for an open-air tour of the town. The kids absolutely loved it.
He drove us up a steep windy road where we had an incredible lunch at Quinta Do Crasto overlooking the terraced hillsides.
Then we headed back down to the river and boarded a private boat for a relaxing cruise back to our hotel. The crew indulged our kids one last time by stopping for a swim in the beautiful Douro River.
Our last day in Portugal was spent relaxing by the hotel pool and already feeling homesick for this beautiful country. We can’t wait to go back.
STAY: The Vintage House
Quiet, charming and in a good location (banks of the Douro river) to visit wineries. The pool was nice and the rooms were comfortable. The restaurant serves traditional Portuguese food—very good.
STAY: Six Senses Douro Valley
This is hands down the most spectacular hotel in Douro Valley, if not Portugal. The grounds are unreal – a garden full of fresh vegetables and herbs used in the restaurants, a spectacular pool. The rooms are luxurious, spacious, and well appointed. The restaurants are beautiful, and the food was fantastic.