First Impressions
Rwanda is a rare destination, distinguished by its remarkable beauty and customs that we quickly came to appreciate. Part of it is the breathtaking landscape — rolling green hills, terraced fields, villages that seem to float along the ridgelines — but what truly stands out is the warmth of the people. Everywhere we went, we felt welcome with a grounded warmth, a feeling that stayed with us throughout the trip.
Kigali: Context and Contrast in a Single Day
Kigali was our starting point, and it’s a city that embraces its history with honesty and care. We began at the Genocide Memorial, a place that invites quiet reflection. The exhibits are unflinching yet thoughtfully curated, offering essential context for understanding the resilience that characterizes modern Rwanda.
Later, we headed to Kōzo for dinner. It wasn’t intended as a counterpoint to our earlier experience, but rather as a natural part of our day in Kigali. The restaurant is modern and warm, serving Asian-inspired dishes crafted with local ingredients. We shared various plates from a menu that included combinations like rock shrimp with a hint of heat and slow-cooked lamb infused with cardamom. After our meal, we settled into the relaxed evening energy of the city.
That blend of reflection and simple connection set the tone for the rest of our journey. Kigali holds its past with care, yet is also vibrant and full of life. Experiencing both aspects in a single day allowed us to grasp the spirit of the country we were about to explore.
South Toward the Forest
The next morning, we flew south to Kamembe and drove into tea country. As we reached One&Only Nyungwe House, it was clear why people talk about Nyungwe with a kind of reverence. The resort sits between tea fields and the forest, and the setting shapes everything — early-morning mist, the warmth of the staff, the quiet hum of nature in every direction.
Guest rooms blend polished design with a quiet celebration of Rwanda. Sophisticated interiors are layered with local artistry — woven baskets, carved accents, and modern works created by Rwandan talent — giving each space both elegance and a sense of place. Light woods, expansive windows, and tactile textures create a restful atmosphere without ever feeling generic. The spa’s opening foot-cleansing ritual, drawn from regional traditions, mirrors the hotel’s approach: luxury shaped by culture, not separated from it.
That afternoon, we walked the canopy trail, suspended above the forest floor. Looking across layers of green, you begin to understand how vast and alive Nyungwe really is.
Meeting the Chimpanzees
Chimp trekking started before dawn. What we didn’t realize until we arrived: every sighting is built on the work of local trackers. These are men who spend each day with the chimpanzees, watching where they nest, listening for movement, and guiding visitors safely and respectfully through the forest.
Our first assigned group moved into terrain we couldn’t reach, so we were rerouted to another community two hours away. The drive, oddly, became one of the most meaningful parts of the experience. We passed families walking to school, women carrying produce on their heads, and long stretches of farmland. Daily life unfolded along the road.
When the chimps finally appeared — one stepping onto the trail ahead of us, others calling through the trees — it felt natural and unscripted. They swung through vines, ate quietly, and moved with surprising speed. No crowds, no staged moments. Just an hour with these remarkable animals, guided by people who know them intimately.
A Journey North
The drive from Nyungwe to Volcanoes National Park took most of the day, and we enjoyed every minute. Rwanda’s nickname, the “land of a thousand hills,” made sense from the first turn of the road. The scenery shifted constantly — misty valleys, small towns waking up, children waving as we passed. This part of the country isn’t polished for tourism, and that’s exactly why it felt so compelling.
We reached One&Only Gorilla’s Nest by late afternoon, where the lodge rises on wooden stilts at the edge of the volcanoes. The design-driven, nature-inspired lodge feels open and elevated — floor-to-ceiling glass, open-air walkways, and eucalyptus trees threading through the grounds. Suites are spacious and modern, with decks that look out toward the slopes, fireplaces for cool mountain evenings, and spa-like bathrooms that make it easy to unwind. The hotel highlights a balance of contemporary design touches with traditional Rwandan motifs, as One&Only Nyungwe, but with a lighter, airier feel relevant to its proximity to the mountains.
Gorilla Trekking: An Hour That Stays With You
Trekking day starts early. At park headquarters, small groups gather to learn which gorilla family they’ll visit. There may be dozens of travelers, but the experience itself is intimate. We never felt part of a crowd.
With guides leading the way and porters helping us through muddy, uneven terrain, we moved steadily through the forest. And then, suddenly, there they were — a young gorilla peering from behind foliage, a silverback resting in a clearing, tiny hands reaching for branches overhead.
For an hour, we simply observed. Gorillas don’t perform. They live. And being in their presence is a quiet, unforgettable privilege.
How Tourism Supports Rwanda’s Communities
Throughout the trip, we saw firsthand how meaningful tourism is to Rwanda’s economy. Trackers, guides, porters, hotel staff, drivers — so many livelihoods are tied to gorilla and chimp trekking. The $10 porter fee, for example, may seem small to travelers, but it’s a significant income locally.
Conservation is just as central. Protecting mountain gorillas and chimpanzees isn’t a niche effort here — it’s woven into the country’s identity, from community-led initiatives to national policies that prioritize wildlife habitats. As we moved between towns, it was easy to see how tourism helps sustain both local livelihoods and the conservation work that keeps Rwanda’s forests and wildlife thriving.
A Country That Stays With You
On our last morning, driving back toward Kigali, Rwanda felt different than when we arrived. We had seen the forests, the wildlife, the hills — all the pieces that make it beautiful. But what stayed with us most was its quiet strength, its generosity, and the sense that travel here matters both for visitors and for the people who call this country home.
For us at Nellie, Rwanda is a place we’ll return to — not because of a single moment, but because of the connection it creates long after you’ve left.
